Want to Try Film Photography? Here Are the Analog …

Digital cameras almost eradicated analog photography, but film is having a comeback, with analog cameras gaining popularity over the last couple of years. Film photography offers such a different experience from taking a photo with your phone or digital camera. It’s less about instant gratification and more about being in the moment and truly considering the image you want to capture. Aside from instant film, which is used in cameras like a Fuji Instax or a Polaroid, you also have to wait for your film to be developed and the images printed. It can be incredibly rewarding and a satisfying process, especially if you’re the one doing it all.

If you’ve never shot on film, it’s well worth trying, whether you’re a seasoned digital photographer or keen to take your first photos on a real camera instead of your phone. I’ve put together this guide to help you get started in film photography — from selecting the camera and choosing the right film through to where to buy both. 

I’ve been a professional photographer for well over a decade, and while I grew up using digital cameras, I’ve thoroughly enjoyed diving into the world of film. So I’m going to share what I’ve learned.

Why shoot film? 

Before digital cameras were common, film was the default way of taking photos, and while it has almost faded into nonexistence, popularity in film photography has soared in recent years — as has the price of film. 

Many photographers have returned to film as a way to challenge themselves and seek authenticity in their images, while others simply like the old-school vibe in the same way that people collect and play vinyl records. For me, it’s all the above.

So let’s start in an obvious place: your camera.

What is the best film camera to buy?

You have hundreds — probably thousands — of different cameras to choose from, all offering surprisingly different ways of taking photos. So deciding which one is the right one for you will depend on a variety of factors. Cost is a big one. But the following are the main types of cameras to consider.

Point-and-shoot cameras

Point-and-shoot film cameras are generally the easiest to use. They have a fixed lens, usually with autofocus, and typically have auto settings that adjust the shutter speed or aperture based on the conditions. They’re often the fastest way to get up and running. And if you want quick snaps with your mates, then a point-and-shoot is the best starting point.

You can get cheap ones like the Canon Prima Zoom which goes for $50 to $130, depending on the condition and specific model, or you can step up in price to something like Konica’s Hexar AF that sells for $800 to $1,000. Broadly speaking, expensive models offer higher-quality lenses with wider apertures and likely more settings and features, but otherwise, they operate in much the same way as cheaper options.

Vintage SLR film cameras

Vintage SLRs, like the Canon AE1, Nikon F or the Pentax K1000, offer retro looks, which is never a bad thing, and were mass-produced across years; plenty are available, usually for not much money, as well as lenses and accessories. The Pentax K1000 I bought cost me the princely sum of 8 pounds (or around 10 bucks if you’re in the US). Better yet, older Pentax lenses are typically less expensive than their modern equivalents.

Some of these are fully manual cameras, so don’t expect autofocus, auto aperture or auto shutter speed. Instead, it usually has an internal light meter to tell you if you’re over- or underexposing your scene. (Just make sure to change out that battery for the light meter.) You can adjust the aperture and shutter speed accordingly until the needle is level.

Other models may have some auto modes, like aperture priority, that allow you to set the aperture on the lens and have the camera’s internal light meter select the shutter speed.

Modern SLR film cameras

Perhaps the best starter camera is a more modern SLR, like the Canon EOS 1000F. These cameras are more up-to-date and come with broader auto settings, interchangeable lenses and autofocus, which makes them a lot quicker and easier to use, especially if it’s your first time with a camera. They’re also some of the easiest to get a hold of, as most were mass-produced well into the 2000s. Because they’re not seen as collector’s items, they remain plentiful and cheap. The Canon 1000F costs between $20 and $50 on film camera reseller sites like Kamerastore or KEH.

The lenses are also easier to get hold of. For example, Canon’s more recent EOS line of SLR cameras uses the same lens mount as its DSLRs before they moved to mirrorless. If you’re like me, you’ve shot with Canon’s digital cameras (such as the 60D or 5D MkIV), so you may already have a cupboard full of Canon EF-mount lenses that are compatible. If not, the huge selection available means they’re cheap and plentiful on the used market.  

Most film cameras are 35mm — literally, the size of a frame of film. You can look at medium-format cameras that use 120 film, but they tend to be more complicated, more expensive and use more expensive film compared to 35mm shooters.

The iconic Hasselblad 500C is an absolute beauty, for example, and I love shooting with it. But it cost hundreds or even thousands to buy, and it only gets 12 images per roll of film. The 500C is more complicated to use, as it requires you to manually meter your scene and adjust all settings. The Mamiya 6, meanwhile, has a built-in light meter and some auto settings; however, while it’s easier to use, it’s still expensive. Medium format is probably best seen as a step-up option once you’ve gotten a handle on 35mm film photography and are looking to branch out. 

And of course, large-format photography, such as 4″x5″ or 8″x10″, is also around, but that’s a whole level of expense and complexity that really isn’t for a beginner. 

Are there any new film cameras being made?

Not many new film cameras are being made right now. There’s the Pentax 17, which shoots half-frame, meaning it splits a 35mm frame in half to get two images — more shots per film, but lower-quality images as a result. Or if you want to spend a ton of money, then Leica still produces its MP film camera — the MP stands for mechanical perfection.

I expect more film cameras to go on sale as film photography continues to gain popularity, but for now, you’re better off shopping for used ones.

Where should I buy film cameras from?

We all dream of finding a vintage Hasselblad or Leica going for a fiver in a junk shop, but the reality is that isn’t going to happen. So you actually need to pay some money. 

Plenty of used cameras can be found online on eBay, Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist or even in just a flyer in your local camera shop. And maybe you’ve been tempted. Buying used this way can work out, as long as you know what you’re looking for; however, you must be cautious. Some people will sell nonworking equipment, and you may not realize it’s broken until you try and put film through it. And if you’re just buying from a guy on the street, you won’t have recourse if it turns out you’ve spent hundreds on a dud. 

Cameras can suffer from a variety of problems, ranging from worn-out light seals to damaged mechanics, while old lenses can be scratched, unable to focus properly or even plagued by fungus. Other times, you might get exactly what you want and at a price you’re happy with. I bought a Mamiya 645 for 500 quid (about $670) from a guy in a car park and it seems to work fine. But I’m no camera technician, and I simply had to trust that the guy wasn’t selling me junk.

To avoid dropping big money on a camera that might be trash, look toward companies like Kamerastore, KEH and Adorama. Kamerastore, for example, buys and sells used film camera equipment, and everything that passes through its doors is individually inspected, certified and, if need be, restored by technicians — technicians who, unlike me, actually know what they’re doing. It means you have peace of mind knowing that, whether you’re spending 50 bucks on a cheap compact or thousands on a premium Hasselblad or Leica, you’re getting something that actually works as it’s supposed to. 

Kamerastore provided all the cameras I tested for this article — excluding the Mamiya 645 and Pentax K1000, which I own — and I’ve really enjoyed using all of them while I’ve been putting this together. When I come to expanding my own collection, it will be Kamerastore that I’ll be spending with.

Now that you have your analog camera, you need something to put in it.

What is the best film to use in a camera?

Film fundamentally comes in two forms: color or black and white. Which one you should use comes down to personal preference. Typically, black and white is cheaper than color film, but neither form is exactly cheap these days. 

A great standard color film is Kodak Gold 200. It gives a classic look that people love for its pleasing warm tones. It’s my favorite, as it happens, and at under $10 a roll, it’s also one of the cheapest, which makes it a great starter film for everyday use, as does its 200 ISO, which is suited for most daytime conditions. 

As you progress, you might want to experiment with different film stocks and the choices are huge. Kodak’s own range includes the desirable — and expensive — Portra 400 and 800, famed for their beautiful tones, while films like Harman Phoenix (version one or version two) have a strong visual look that’s fun to experiment with. Or go absolutely wild with Harman Red, which gives your images an apocalyptic red tone. 

I’ve found that most online stores that sell film usually have a variety of example photos taken with each stock, so you can see the sort of tones you might get from it. And if you want to see more, simply Google the film and the handy keyword “examples” to find additional images to explore.

Buying film means making a decision on both the particular look you want and the types of photos you want to take with it. Why is that? Your film choice dictates your ISO speed — something that digital photographers are accustomed to adjusting with the push of a button. Most film has ISO somewhere in between 200 to 800.

Some films, like the black and white Leica Monopan 50, have an ISO speed of 50. That’s low sensitivity, so you’ll need slower shutter speeds and/or wider apertures to let in enough light, especially if you’re in dim surroundings. Ilford’s Delta 3200 black and white film, however, has a much faster ISO of 3200. You’ll be able to use faster shutter speeds, making it ideal for handheld shooting in low-light scenes. For black-and-white film, you can’t go wrong with Ilford HP5 for most scenarios or, for a cheaper alternative, Kentmere 400. They’re both solid, offer pleasing contrast and both have ISO speeds of 400. 

Now that you have a camera, you’re ready to go. And you have your film. You’re doing well. Now it’s time to actually take some photos. Check back at CNET for my guide on how to shoot film photography on an analog camera.